Black Friday Exclusions

YOU’VE GOT QUESTIONS?

WE’VE GOT ANSWERS, AND WE’D LOVE TO HELP.


CUSTOMER SERVICE HOURS MON–FRI 9–5 PST


General Help & Product Questions

help@daddiesboardshop.com


Order Changes

orderchanges@daddiesboardshop.com

(Please also read our Order Changes Page)


Want us to look at a new product?

vipsales@daddiesboardshop.com


503.281.5123

888.779.7062 Toll Free


Daddies Board Shop

5909 NE 80th Ave.

Portland, OR 97218


Retail Hours:

Mon–Fri 11–8

Saturday 11–7

Sunday 11–6

All hours PST

BUYER'S GUIDE

FAQ's

What is a Complete Longboard?

A Complete is a fully assembled longboard skateboard that is ready to ride the second you take it out of the box. Ok, maybe it will take more than a second if you unpack the box inside the house and need to take the board outside to ride it. But you get our drift.

Daddies sells both Complete longboards as well longboard decks (the board itself) that do not come assembled. If you want to buy a fully assembled longboard, make sure you are purchasing a Complete. If you just want the deck, select Deck Only.

Do I need to customize the board?

No. Daddies offers loads of customization options but if you simply want to purchase the Complete with the standard components shown, just click the "Add to Cart" button and then move to check out. Plain and simple. No fuss.

What are the default components on the Completes?

Every Complete longboard requires three and only three components - the wheels, trucks, and bearings. Our Completes come standard with the following components:

Dano's Wheels: Made in the USA, Dano's wheels are highly versatile, dependable, and are priced right. Dano's can be used to cruise around town, slide, or pick up some downhill speed. They come in multiple colors.

Paris, Bear, or Randal Trucks: A truck has two main pieces - a hanger that houses the axle and a baseplate which is mounted to the deck itself. Our default truck options include Bear, Paris and Randal trucks - all premium trucks. The trucks we select as default options in a Complete work beautifully with those particular decks.

Bearings: A wheel is mounted on a truck via a bearing, a circular piece that fits snugly inside the wheel's core. Completes come standard with the Daddies Board Shop Abec 7 V2 bearings. These bearings are high quality and high value. We do offer a number of bearing upgrade options but if you are new to longboarding, want a durable bearing that will generate good speed, and want to keep your costs down, stick with the Daddies Board Shop Abec 7 V2s.

How important are the Options offered when purchasing Completes?

First, you don't need to select any of these options. If you don't change a thing, your board will come to you ready to ride.

Here are the options we do offer:

Assemble My Ride: by default, we assemble the longboard free of charge. However, those customers that wish to assemble the boards themselves can choose the "I'll Do it Myself" option. If you choose to assemble the board yourself, we will provide all the hardware necessary to assemble the board.

Grip My Board: Grip tape is a thin, coarse tape applied to the top of the board where the rider stands, allowing the rider to maintain a firm footing. By default, all boards come with grip tape applied at no additional change. While many manufacturers send us boards pre-gripped, other boards come to us without grip tape. In those cases, we grip the board with premium black grip tape. However, you have the option to select either a more specialized grip tape which we can apply or, alternatively, we can send you the grip tape unapplied.

Add Bearing Spacers: Bearing spacers are small pieces of steel that sit between the bearings inside the wheel. If you are new to longboarding and just plan to cruise around town, you don't need bearing spacers. If you plan to undertake more advanced riding, spacers are an inexpensive way to improve your ride and protect your bearings. The spacers act to decrease the amount of force on your bearings by providing support from inside the wheel. If you want to learn more about spacers, head on over here.

Add Risers or Shock Pads: Risers are a great way to ensure that you won't get wheelbite by providing greater clearance between the deck and the wheels. Shock pads do the same thing but they are also constructed out of a softer rubber which (i) absorbs shock thereby smoothing the ride and (ii) disperses the pressure placed on the deck by the trucks reduces the likelihood that the board will develop pressure cracks. Shock pads are especially helpful with drop-through longboards. While shock pads are never a bad idea, they are not necessary for first time riders who are just getting into the longboarding groove.

Add a Skate Tool: A skate tool is not needed, but it is a relatively inexpensive and extremely convenient tool to help you maintain your board or even build it, if you're up for it. Parents tend to dig skate tools because it keeps the youngins' out of the family tool box.

Add Bearing Lube or Cleaning Kit: Bearing lube is used to keep bearings, and hence wheels, turning more smoothly and quickly. Cleaning kits are for - can you guess? - cleaning the bearings! Keeping your bearings clean and lubricated will add significant life to them. However, if you are new to skating, take a pass on the bearing lube and cleaning kit for now, learn to love your new ride, and then come on back to Daddies to gear up when you are ready to take your riding to the next level!

What are the Riding Styles about? Tell me about Crusing/Carving, Downhill, Freeride and Freestyle.

For details, head on over to our Super Simple Recommendations page.

SUPER SIMPLE RECOMMENDATIONS

The most common thing we hear from new longboarders is, "I don't where to start!" The second most common thing we hear is, "Fine mom, I will mow the back yard." But I digress...

Our website is full of information to guide you on your journey to longboarding peace and tranquility. However, for those of you who aren't inclined to earn a PhD in longboarding and just want to get riding, we're here to help.

Here are our super simple recommendations to get you on a board quickly:

Cruising/Carving Longboards

For a fun form of transportation and for taking wide turns down the street to create a surfing feel on concrete waves, Cruising/Carving longboards are excellent for all-around riding.

Downhill Boards

For scratching that speed itch. Enough said.

Freeride Boards

For undertaking maneuvers such as sliding in quick succession down hills, freeriding is becoming the most progressive form of longboarding.

Freestyle Boards

For undertaking street skate tricks while providing the versatility and stability of downhill and freeride boards.

Our Top Picks:

Freestyle

For undertaking street skate tricks while providing the versatility and stability of downhill and freeride boards.

Sick•tion•ary [sik-shuh-ner-ee] noun, a longboarding lexicon

BASICS

Carving Longboards: Used for skating in a way that heavily mimics the large or tight turns done on a surfboard.

Cruising Longboards: Used for general all-purpose skating as a form of transportation and fun.

Downhill Longbards: Used for high-speed and very advanced longboarding generally performed on designed racetracks, areas, or hills.

Drifting: Sliding in a controlled manner in order to scrub off speed in order to safely hold a line around a corner.

Freeride Longboards: Used for technical tricks that are performed in quick succession with one another. Tricks often consist of a series of slides at various speeds.

Freestyle Longboards: Used for technical tricks that are based off traditional skateboarding tricks. These tricks commonly consist of popping the board off the ground and making the board do a series of flips and spins.

Goofy Footed: Skating with your right foot forward as your dominant stance.

Long Distance Push: A style of riding where board setups are finely tuned for maximum comfort and performance when pushing very long distances. Ideally, LDP boards will sit very low to the ground to decrease the amount of height a rider needs to dip down in order to kick or push off the ground.

Manual: Using a kicktail on a board to gain leverage over your front or back wheels to perform a "wheelie." In the world of skateboarding a wheelie is called a "manual." When performing the trick on the front your board it is referred to as a "nose-manual."

Pack-skating: Skating in a tight group of riders, generally at high speeds. Having trust in the skaters around you is a key-factor in pack-skating.

Pumping: Gyrating your board by a series of controlled turns in order to generate speed without pushing.

Pushing: Kicking along the ground as a form of self-propulsion.

Regular Footed: Skating with your left foot forward as your dominant stance.

Slalom: A style of racing on shorter board setups where the rider weaves in and out of multiple cones at relatively high speeds.

Sliding: Turning you and your board sideways while skating at a high enough speed to make your wheels lose traction and break into a slide. This is the basis of freeriding.

Switch: Skating opposite of your dominant stance.

ACCESSORIES

Foot-stops: A piece that can be attached on the top of your deck to keep your front or back foot in place. High speed riders often use these.

Griptape: The sandpaper like material that is applied to the top of your deck in order to keep you from sliding around when riding.

Hardware: The bolts and nuts that fasten your trucks to your deck.

Nose/Tail Guards: A protective bumper that can be attached to the nose or tail of your board that will protect it from smashing up against hard objects.

Risers: These pieces of hard plastic can be used in between your trucks and your deck in order to increase a board's ride height. They are designed to help avoid wheel-bite when riding larger wheels or looser trucks.

Shock Pads: Basically the soft version of a riser that helps raise your board up while reducing shock and vibration from the street at the same time.

BEARINGS

Abec Rating: Abec stands for Annular Bearing Engineering Committee. This group of engineers developed a rating system for a bearing's precision that is accepted worldwide. However, not all bearing companies choose to have their products rated by ABEC. A primary example is the company Bones who makes some of the best competition bearings in the world.

Balls: Bearings actually have a series of balls inside of them that sit securely inside of a casing unit. They make the wheel go around!

Built-In: Built-in bearings are bearings with spacers and speed rings built into their design.

Casing: The casing holds the ball bearings in place.

Ceramics: Ceramic is easier to form than steel and therefore much more precise. Ceramic bearings do not heat up like steel bearings do and are ideal for high speed, long distance, downhill riding.

Inner Race: This is the small ring on the inside of the bearing that goes directly around the axle of your truck.

Outer Race: This is the outermost ring of your bearing that helps keep everything in place.

Shield: Shields are the colored round protectors on the outside of the bearing that usually has something written on it. They aren't just for decoration though! They keep the insides of the bearing protected from gunk and grime that somehow always finds its way into bearings. Shields are key to having your bearings last a long time. Some bearings will have a shield on both sides of bearing. The term for these bearings is "double shielded."

Spacers: Spacers were originally designed to keep wheels from wobbling on axles in the original days of skateboarding. They fit inside of the wheel's core between your bearings and allow you to tighten your axle nuts down further for a smoother ride, smoother slide, and more security over all.

Steel: Most bearings will be made of steel. They roll great, are relatively inexpensive, and are very durable.

Swiss: Swiss-made bearings are known for their incredible precision. More precision means fewer flaws in construction and less chance for unnecessary friction!

BUSHINGS

Barrels: Barrel shaped bushings are great for downhill and high speed riding because their shape creates more material in a truck's bushing seat slightly restricting the maneuverability.

Cones: Cone shaped bushings that do not restrict the maneuverability of your trucks. They are great for carving and cruising setups.

Conventional: This setup is used in street style trucks. It consists of a short cone bushing that sits on the topside of a truck's hanger and a tall cone bushing that sits on the bottom side of a truck's hanger.

Cupped Washers: Washers that turn on the sides in order to slightly restrict how much a bushing can warp and shift. They will help in reducing your turning radius adding to overall stability.

Durometer: This is the unit of measurement for the hardness of a bushing.

Flat-Washers: Washers that will not restrict the movement of a bushing.

Rebound: This is the term used to describe a bushing's return to center; the center point being the truck's original positioning.

Stepped-Barrel: These are great for downhill and high speed riding. They are very stable and eliminate a large amount of slop. Their appearance is very distinct. They notch out and upwards into a thicker area and sometimes back into a smaller area again.

Stepped-Cone: A stepped cone sinks into a truck's bushing seat reducing slop while providing plenty of lean at the same time. These are great for high-speed freeriding.

Urethane: The chemical substance that 99% of bushings are made out of today.

DECKS

3D Concave: A form of concave that is generally found above a board's wheel-wells. It creates bubble-like formations that you can push your feet up against for more leverage when freeriding or downhilling.

Asymmetrical: A board with a directional shape that is not intended to be ridden backwards. These are often used for high speed riding and racing.

Camber: This is usually only found in longboards with a good amount of flex. It is a slight bow that bends upwards from nose to tail and it counteracts a board's flex in order to prevent flexible boards from bottoming out.

Concave: A cup-like formation that almost every deck's standing platform will have. It spans from side to side rather than from nose to tail. Concave helps keep your board under your feet and creates a feeling of being "locked in" without actually locking you in!

Cutouts: An area of the deck where materials have been cut out to provide the wheels more clearance when turning. Cutouts help avoid "wheel-bite," where the wheels hit the bottom of your deck causing you to stop abruptly and send you flying forward.

Double-Drop Longboards: A board that combines both the drop platform with the drop-thru truck mounting system. Double-Drop boards sit very low to the ground and are often used in Long Distance Push or very technical downhill riding.

Drop Down Platform Longboards: A topmount board where the standing platform sits lower than where the trucks are mounted. This lowers your center of gravity and provides for more stability and easier sliding.

Drop-Thru Longboards: A type of deck where a cutout is made where the trucks mount. Trucks have to be pulled apart and mounted together after the baseplate has been attached on the topside of the deck: This lowers your center of gravity and provides for more stability and easier sliding.

Flex: Flex can be your friend or your foe! It is great for carving and initiating slides at lower speeds. It also helps dampen your ride so that you feel less of the terrain beneath you. However, flex reduces rigidity and stability and is not recommended for high speed riding.

Gas-Pedals: Areas cut out of the side of your deck at an angle where your toes and feet will generally be positioned. They help you gain leverage on the sides of your longboard when pushing it out to initiate a slide or drift.

Kicktail: An upturned nose or tail on a board that allows a rider to pop the board off the ground to perform aerial maneuvers. They are also used to perform manuals and a series of freestyle tricks.

Lamination: This is the glue that holds the board's veneers together.

Ply/Plies: The amount of wood, bamboo, or fiberglass veneers (sheets) that are put into a board's construction.

Rocker: A feature in a board that creates a very subtle U-shape from nose to tail. It provides for a more ergonomically correct ride because it is easier on your knees. It also gives you a sense of direction regardless of which way you are riding your board. Great for freeriding!

Standing Platform: The effective area of a deck where your feet can be placed when riding.

Symmetrical: A board that is shaped exactly the same on either side that allows you to ride it either direction without altering the way it feels. Great for riding switch!

Topmount Longboards: Like a traditional skateboard, this is a type of deck where the hardware drops in from the top of the board, mounting the trucks on the bottom side of the board. Topmount longboards offer the most amount of traction and are commonly used in downhill riding.

W-Concave: This is a secondary ridge that forms in the middle of your board and runs nose to tail. It creates a pocket for your feet and/or toes that can be used in downhill or freeriding to help you gain leverage over your board, lock you in, and give you a sense of where your feet are without looking down at them.

Wheel-wells: Shaved or grooved out areas of a deck above the wheels that will provide for more clearance when turning. Wheel-wells help avoid "wheel-bite," where the wheels hit the bottom of your deck causing you to stop abruptly and send you flying forward.

PROTECTIVE GEAR

Full-Face Helmet: A style of helmet that is built for higher impacts and protects your entire head. Used primarily in downhill racing.

Helmet: The most important thing you can get when purchasing a longboard! Protect that noggin!

Leathers: Leather suits that are designed for serious downhill racers. Most sanctioned races require riders to use protective racing leathers.

Pads: There is a type of protective padding for pretty much anything out there and they are all good ideas! Some of the more common ones are for your knees, elbows, and wrists.

Pucks: Hard pieces of plastic that are attached to slide gloves.

Slide Gloves: Protective gloves that allow you to place your hands on the ground when riding at high speeds. They let you perform a series of tricks and maneuvers more safely.

TRUCKS

Axle: The axle runs through the truck's hanger and is what the wheels are mounted on.

Baseplate: The part of the truck with the holes in it for your mounting hardware. It is the piece that comes in direct contact with your deck.

Bushing Seat: This is the area in the truck's hanger where the bushings will sit in place. Each truck company has its own unique bushing seat design.

Cast: The majority of trucks on the market are "cast." Cast trucks are made by pouring a hot, liquefied metal composite into a truck-shaped cast. They are great all-around trucks for cruising, carving, freeriding, and downhill longboarding.

Conventional: Standard street and pool style skateboard trucks. Lately people have been using larger conventional trucks for freeriding and downhill setups.

Degrees: The degree of your truck's kingpin can make a huge difference. The higher the degree, the greater the truck's turning radius. The lower the degree, the more ideal the truck is for higher speed riding.

Hanger: The hanger houses the truck's axle and mounts into the truck's baseplate.

Kingpin: This protrudes from the baseplate and goes through the hanger. It gives your trucks a central point on which their turning is based.

Loose Trucks: "Loose" is the term used to describe trucks that are set up to have maximum turning.

Pivot Cup: This small cup fits into your truck's baseplate and allows the hanger to turn smoothly but remain stable and snug.

Precision: CNC cut trucks from aluminum that are so precise that absolutely NO SLOP or flaws are left in the truck's construction. Serious downhill riders frequently use these modern marvels!

Pushing: Kicking along the ground as a form of self-propulsion.

Rake: This is used to describe how much the feel of a truck will change if you flip your truck's hanger over.

Reverse Kingpin: This type of truck is the standard in longboarding trucks. The kingpin nut sits on the outside of the hanger and is more stable but still offers a larger turning radius.

Speed Rings: These small washers are placed on both sides of your wheel when they are attached to your trucks. They allow you to tighten your axle nuts down further without damaging your bearings.

Spring: Spring trucks do not use a traditional bushing combination as their form of tension. They use springs and are considered to be "self-centering." They are great for slalom riding but are not as stable at high speeds.

Tight Trucks: "Tight" is the term used to describe trucks that are set up to have limited turning.

WHEELS

Bevel: A large majority of wheels will have a small bevel on their inside lip. If you aren't familiar with the word "bevel," it is a shaven down or angular notch on the lip of an object, in this case a wheel. It allows a brand new wheel to retain its original amount of grip while still being able to transition into slides or drifts with ease.

Center-Set: A center-set core is placed directly in the center of a wheel leaving an equal amount of urethane on both sides. It offers the most amount of grip because it maximizes the amount of urethane being used on either side of the core.

Coning: This can occur to wheels that are constantly being slid upon. If your wheels aren't rotated from time to time, coning is more prone to occur. Your wheels will wear away at an angle which will heavily reduce their grip and predictability.

Contact Patch: This is the area that runs the width of the wheel and is the portion that is constantly in contact with the asphalt.

Core/Hub: This is the area of the wheel that houses the bearings.

Durometer: This is the unit of measurement for the hardness of a wheel. There are three scales that are primarily used; A, B, and D. The B and D scales are generally used in very hard skateboarding wheels. Almost every longboard wheel will be rated in the A scale and the most common durometers range from 78a to 84a. For more information on durometer, visit our "Geek Out" section.

Flat-spot: Flat-spots occur on your wheels when you slide at a 90 degree angle or higher. When you pass 90 degrees your wheel actually stops spinning and will only wear down in one spot which creates a flattened area. No one likes flat-spots!

Hard Lip: This is when the "lip" or edge of a wheel comes to a sharp point which will maximize grip. A hard lip is ideal for downhill or high speed riding.

Off-Set: An off-set core sits slightly off-center in a wheel and has the perfect amount of grip and slip. It has more grip than a fully side-set wheel because it utilizes more urethane (urethane in contact with the ground when turning, cornering, or sliding) but it doesn't utilize as much urethane as a center-set wheel, which provide the maximum amount of grip. Off-set wheels can be used for almost anything.

Predictability: This is a term used to describe how easy it is to control a wheel in regards to sliding and drifting.

Round-Lip: This is when the "lip" or edge of a wheel is rounded up in order to provide an easier transition into a slide. These are ideal for freeriding and sliding.

Side-Set: The core of a side-set wheel will be set completely to the side of a wheel making it very easy to kick out into a slide. With these wheels not much urethane is actively touching the ground during slides and cornering.

Stone-Ground: Wheels that have had their contact patch stone ground and basically pre-worn-in. They are great for sliding and freeriding.

Urethane: The chemical substance that 99% of wheels are made out of today.

OTHER

Burning Thane: Sliding in such a gnarly manner that urethane literally melts off your wheels.

Buttery: A term used for wheels that slide so smooth you feel like you are spreading butter!

Getting Pitted: A term taken from surfing and is sometimes also referred to as "getting barreled." It is used when surfers are deep in the barrel of the wave, in a pit, and doesn't exactly apply to longboarding but people use it anyways. Just use it and if you don't think about it...it makes sense!

Icy: Wheels that shoot out from under you like ice when you are sliding. No one likes an icy wheel!

Mongo: Pretty much the biggest "no-no" in skateboarding history. It is pushing with your front foot as opposed to your back foot. It is a very unstable form of pushing and should be corrected or avoided at all cost.

Shredding the Gnar: Locating some gnar and skating on it in a very intense and aggressive manner.

Sketchy: Something that just doesn't look good. It can be a spot, a hill, a corner, a skating style, a trick... it is a pretty versatile term!

Steez: Style with ease! If you can ride with steez then you can go far!

Thane Lines: Streaks left behind on the asphalt from your wheel's urethane that A.) look cool and B.) can be used as bragging rights for longest slide at a session!

Touchin' Puck: Getting steezy and throwing down a hand in order to catch your balance or to perform a hands down slide.

GEEK OUT

If you want to get a PhD in longboarding, Geek Out isn't a bad place to start. However, if you just want to grab a board and go, check out our Super Simple Recommendations.

Can I mount my trucks on a drop-through board?

Most longboard manufacturers make sure that their boards are compatible with every truck on the market with the exception of specialty trucks with springs or pistons, e.g. Original, Revenge, and Seismic trucks. Trucks that are assembled with a kingpin and hanger (Paris, Randall, Bear, Caliber...) will most likely fit any drop-through board. Mounting the trucks requires disassembling the base plate and hanger by loosening the kingpin nut all the way. If you are unsure how to do this, follow this link to our instructional video on mounting a drop-through.

Does wheel base length matter?

The answer is simply, yes. The way in which the wheel base measurement affects the riding characteristics of a longboard is by determining the distance between the trucks. A longer wheelbase is going to increase the turning radius of the board and also offer more stability at downhill speeds. Having a shorter wheel base will give the board a more responsive feel and offer a smaller and tighter turning radius.

How do you stop on a longboard?

There are two main ways to slow down. The most common way to stop is by what is called foot braking. This is when you literally take your back foot off your board and drag it on the ground while your lead foot stays firmly planted on the board. This may seem like a death wish at first, but once you are comfortable with it you will feel much more in control of your board. The other way to stop is by sliding sideways. This isn't for the novice rider but it can be learned fairly quickly if sliding is something your into. Sliding is the preferred way amongst most longboarders and it is actually safer and more effective at high speeds. Learning to stop by sliding also teaches you the basics of "speed-checks" (scrubbing off speed) at higher speeds which is essential for anyone interested in racing. However, if sliding doesn't interest you then it's probably best to stick with foot braking.

How long do wheels last?

Wheel life all depends on how often you ride and what kind of riding you do. If you are sliding a lot, you will burn through wheels much faster than someone who is just cruising around. If you take good care of your board, rotate your wheels, and don't slide, your wheels may last twenty years. On the flip side, some people can burn through a set of wheels in a day if they are having an intense session. Other things that can ruin a set of wheels are flat-spotting, ovalling, and coning. See the descriptions below.

Flat-spotting: Flat-spotting occurs when you slide and kick your board passed a 90-degree angle. When you do this you actually completely stop the wheel from spinning throughout the duration of the slide. This wears down a single part of the wheel rather than creating an even wear when the wheel is able to rotate throughout the slide.

Ovalling: Ovalling is really more annoying than anything else. Your wheels can become an oblong shape due to sliding more in one direction than another. When your wheels become ovalled you will feel a constant bumping feeling as your wheels rotate. It is very difficult to even out wheels that have ovalled.

Coning: Coning naturally happens to wheels as you slide them down, which it is why it is important to rotate your wheels around your board as much as you can if you are heavy into sliding. Riding on center-set wheels is a great way to fight coning. You can flip your wheels over once they start to cone and wear them back down in the opposite direction.

How often should I clean my bearings?

You should always visually inspect your longboard or skateboard before you go shred. If you see that there is a lot of dirt and grime surrounding your bearings and you're not travelling as far or long as you had before, you may want to think about cleaning them. Another sign that it is time to clean your bearings is if they make an unusually loud noise when they spin. Bearings always make noise, but if you notice it more and more then chances are it's time to clean. If you spend money on a nice set of bearings, you should always consider cleaning them before you drop a boat load of cash on a new set. Many bearings will last years and years with the proper care. Unfortunately, there is no set schedule for bearing cleaning, but generally, if you use your longboard for transportation purposes or multiple times a week, you should probably clean your bearings at least once every two months.

Stiff vs. Flexy

Longboards come with different levels of flex, both my manufacture design and by the weight of the rider. Flex is both a personal preference and also dependent on what style of riding you want to do. Generally downhill or race-oriented boards are going to be stiff with no flex for greater stability at high speed. Many freestyle and cruising type boards will have some flex to emulate the comfort and feeling of surfing or snowboarding. Flexible boards are great for initiating slides and turns at lower speeds while stiffer boards will be better at doing the same things at higher speeds.

Top Mount vs. Drop-Through

Top mount and drop-through longboards both have their strengths and weaknesses. Drop-through boards have taken the longboarding world by storm in the last ten years. Many riders like them because they feel very stable due to their lower center of gravity. However, some people find that drop-throughs can't offer enough stiffness, response, or grip for their taste due to the hole that must be cut into the board to allow it to be mounted underneath the truck. Top mount boards are great for downhill and freeriding because they are very responsive and controllable when sliding and riding at high speed. With top mount boards you will sit a bit higher up giving you a little more room to lean down on either side before putting enough tension on your board for you wheels to slide out. Drop-through boards sit much lower to the ground and will slide out sooner than a top mount. Again, both styles have their benefits and can be used to your advantage depending on your riding style and terrain. For example, a top mount would be a great downhill racing board on a high-speed course with big sweeping corners where you want to keep the maximum amount of speed without breaking your tuck. A drop-through would be a great racing board on a course where the riders have to slide and drift in order to properly and safely continue through multiple technical corners and turns. Drop-through boards have a very low ride height that makes pushing less strenuous because the rider is closer to the ground they are pushing on. Also, freestyle riders who are into doing technical tricks often prefer a drop-through that has flex and kicks on the nose and tail. Of course, personal preference plays a huge role in choosing a drop-through or top mount. If you snowboard or surf and want to emulate that feeling on your longboard then look at a drop-through first. If maximum downhill speed is what you are after then you may lean more towards a top mount.

What does "durometer" mean?

The durometer (or "duro") is the hardness of the urethane in a bushing or wheel. It is that number and letter that follows the size, like 81a. The higher the number, the harder the urethane. There are other durometer rating scales (B and D) that are used but they are generally only seen in skateboarding where the wheels are too hard to be properly rated on the A scale.

Here are a few examples of different durometers of wheels that are common in longboarding:

A 78a - 80a wheel is going to be smooth and grippy. If you are using it for sliding you will have to slide going much faster than normal but your slide will be very controllable. 78-80a wheels are extremely versatile and are considered to be excellent for all-around riding.

An 81a - 83a wheel will be faster with slight resistance but will wear down much less than a softer wheel. These wheels are particularly good for riders of intermediate skill who want to learn more advanced sliding.

An 84a - 86a wheel will be hard with minimal grip. Harder wheels generally have a higher roll speed and slide much easier but aren't as smooth or controllable as softer wheels. Beginning sliders tend to favor wheels in this durometer range.

An 87a and up wheel will be very hard with little to no grip. They are ideal for technical sliding set-ups, pool and park riding, or traditional street skate boarding.

Bushings, just like wheels, come in an assortment of duros, usually ranging from mid 70's to upper 90's. Softer bushings are easier to turn on and more responsive. Harder bushings are more stable and can handle higher speeds. There isn't any "rule" on what duro is best for what. It depends on the rider's size and preference of riding style. Don't be afraid to try multiple durometers.

What is a more expensive bearing going to do for me?

The material that is used for the actual balls of the bearing and the precision at which those bearings are manufactured affects the performance, and therefore the price, of the bearing. A more precise bearing will provide a faster ride for a longer period of time by creating less friction than a lower end bearing. Higher end bearings will come loaded with better lubricant that lasts longer and protects against abuse. Bearing materials come in two flavors: steel and ceramic. The vast majority of ball bearings are steel. Ceramic bearings are more expensive as they tolerate higher heat and are easier to shape than steel so they are more precise. In the end, a more expensive bearing is going to roll faster and last longer than their lower cost competition.

What is Concave?

Concave is the curve of the board from edge to edge. Its main job is to give a board a more responsive feel by raising the edges of the board tightly up against the rider's heel and toes. Boards that are designed for more downhill or freeriding often have very aggressive concave shapes because the riders need to know that their feet aren't going to slide off the board while more traditional shaped boards usually have a fairly mellow concave that is just enough to help the rider initiate turns quickly but doesn't feel uncomfortable over longer distances and while pushing.

What is the benefit of replacing my bushings?

In order to understand the benefits of different bushings, you should understand what role the bushing plays in the way your longboard turns. The bushings are what determine how easy or hard it is to turn your longboard. A softer bushing is going to enable more responsive turns, i.e. you will turn with great ease. However, softer bushings are more prone to speed wobbles at higher speeds. A harder bushing will be more stable at higher speeds but you sacrifice responsiveness. The shape of the bushing will provide different characteristics too by either having more material for stability (barrel, stepped barrel, etc...) or less material (cone) for agility. Aftermarket bushings tend to be made with higher quality urethane than stock bushings. This gives them the ability to respond quicker, get the truck back to center faster, and last longer. Upgrading the bushings in your trucks is like upgrading the suspension of a race car. Softer suspension for a road course and a stiffer suspension for the Super Speedway.

There are few right answers with bushing choice. It's a matter of personal preference and experimentation. We recommend that first time riders stick with the stock bushings on the trucks you buy, and then go nuts with bushing customization down the road.

What is the difference between 180mm trucks and 150mm trucks?

Longboarding trucks (also known as reverse kingpin trucks) come in two common sizes - 180mm and 150mm, although many truck companies offer slight variations relative to these sizes. Truck sizes accommodate different riding styles. One hundred and eighty millimeter trucks are much more common on most longboard set-ups. They are responsive and turn well, and their broader profile provides the stability that most longboarders prefer. And if going fast ruffles your feathers, 180mm trucks are for you. One hundred and fifty millimeter trucks are more nimble and will be more responsive than 180mm trucks. They tend to be popular on cruiser boards because they are easier to rip turns on mellow terrain. However, the shorter axel means that the trucks won't be as stable at high speed.

What kind of wheels do I need?

In longboarding, there are a couple different types of wheel shapes. Some are very specific to a certain style of riding while others have a variety of uses like the Dano's Downhill wheels that come as the default option on our Completes. The specific types of wheels are sliding, downhill, and cruising wheels.

Before choosing a wheel, keep a few things in mind. First, remember that a bigger wheel will mean the possibility of wheel- bite, more weight, and more effort to start pushing. However, a bigger wheel will roll faster and more smoothly over rougher terrain and debris. Second, most people looking for a good all-around wheel find that a 78a-81a durometer is best for a smooth and stable ride. Lastly, if you want a board that will cruise with ease over a longer distance you should look for a large core or "hub". A larger, dense core creates an overall higher roll speed. Some wheel companies even offer a "dual-durometer" wheel with a harder urethane wrapping around the core that will create the same feeling as a larger core.

See the following for more detailed wheel descriptions.

SLIDING WHEELS: Sliding wheels or "freeriding wheels" are designed to provide a little grip while still being able to slide sideways on demand. Typically they are narrower and have a harder urethane than downhill wheels. Also, sliding wheels often have a rounded profile along the edges of the wheels. This will help the wheel initiate and stay in the slide by not catching any sharp corners or "lips" on the ground. Some slide wheels will come with a stone ground finish to the contact patch area. This is quite popular because when a wheel gets ground down it slides a little bit easier by not having a perfectly flat surface with sticky urethane. However, some riders still prefer non-stone ground wheels so that they can get used to how a wheel is going perform during the "breaking-in" process.

DOWNHILL WHEELS: Downhill wheels are designed for two things; speed and grip. The speed comes from the size of the wheel (the bigger, the faster) and the urethane compound that it's made of. Downhill wheels also feature a wider profile with sharp edges. The increased width will provide more grip at high speed by maximizing the amount of urethane that is in contact with the ground at all times. Having sharp edges ensures that the wheel will not slip out at high speeds when taking corners. A common term for describing a downhill wheel is “conical” due to the inside shape of the wheel that leads to the core.

CRUISING WHEELS: A cruising wheel can take many forms. Usually they resemble downhill wheels by having a conical shape. Typically, cruising wheels don't need the most advanced urethane compound to provide a quality ride which often makes them a less expensive wheel. Most people like a 60-70mm wheel for cruising because it will provide a smooth ride and won't require the board to be really high off the ground.

Why do my trucks make a squeaking noise when I turn?

Don't be alarmed if your trucks start to make a mild squeaking noise after you ride them for a while. The squeaking usually comes from two things. One, the dirt and dust that get into the pivot cup will cause the truck hanger to squeak a little. The most common cure for this is to remove the hanger and place a few shavings of bar soap into the pivot cup. The other cause of squeaky trucks is the friction between the hanger and bushing. When the urethane of the bushings gets old and dirty, it will start to make more noise than when it's new. Again, a little soap shavings will help but this noise is nearly impossible to get rid of without replacing the bushings. The biggest thing to know about squeaking is that it's mostly just annoying - squeaking trucks won't affect your ride.

QUESTION BANK

Here's where we get specific. As you prepare to embark on your next boarding adventure, we thought it'd be helpful to compile our answers to some of the best product-specific questions our customers ask us. Got a more general question? check out our FAQs.

ACCESSORIES

BEARINGS

What size bearing spacers do I need?

A majority of wheels take an 8x10mm bearing spacer. There are a few instances where the core of the wheel will be narrower and require an 8x8mm spacer.

Are your bearing spacers alloy or steel?

We carry Khiro Aluminum Spacers for our bearings.

BUSHINGS

What size of Buzzed Amish Washers fits Venom or Blood Orange barrel bushings?

You will want the 1" Buzzed Amish Washers.

HARDWARE

What bolts size should I order if I want to put the Eastside Nosejob on my board?

The Eastside Nosejob is 1/4" thick, so you will need hardware that is 1/4" longer that what you would normally use. 1-1/2" hardware should work for a majority of longboards.

LONGBOARDS

Will your Universal Drop Thru Longboard Nose Guard Work on my Sector 9 Drop Thru?

The Universal Nosejob will fit on a majority of drop thrus on the market as long as the kick tail is not too long, and the kick tail is not up turned.

Do I need to order two Surfco Hawaii Tail Guards to protect both the nose and tail, or does the package include two pieces?

Yes, you will need to order two of them as there is only one per package.

MISC

When I see the Pro Tec Ankle Braces online for 19.95 is that for a pair of the braces or are they sold individually?

The Pro Tec Ankle Braces come as a pair, so for $19.95 you receive a left and a right in the ankle braces!

BEARING LUBRICANT

What does the Bones Lube/Cleaning Kit Combo come with?

The Bones Lube/Cleaning Kit Combo comes with the Bones Bearing Cleaning Kit and Bones Speed Cream Bearing Lube together.

BEARINGS

Is there a specific bearing that would hold up better in a wet climate?

Typically, ceramic bearings well hold up better in wet conditions because the balls will not rust when wet. A couple you could try are the Rush All Weather Ceramics or the DBS Biltin Ceramics.

If I customize a deck at Daddies, and I select the Bones Super Swiss 6 Bearings, and assemble it myself, do I still need to get bearing spacers? The package is suppose to come with bearing spacers, so I don't still need to buy them, do I?

Nope! The Super Swiss 6 Bearings come with spacers in the package, so you wouldn't need to order them.

I have Mini Monster Hawgs, Paris 180 Trucks, and Bones Reds Bearings. What bearing spacers and size should I get?

For that setup, regular 8mm bearing spacers will work just fine.

Are the Black Panthers Bearings better then Bones Reds Bearings?

This is really all a matter of personal preference. We personally prefer Bones Reds, however the Black Panthers are on par with Bones Reds.

I was wondering if the Biltin Bearings come pre-lubricated or not.

Yep! All bearings come pre-lubricated. They do, however, need to be broken in for this lubrication to take effect. They won't spin to their full potential out of the box, but after a few times of riding, they'll be good to go!

BUSHINGS

How would the Venom Super Carve Bushings Orange 81a affect the performance of a Caliber Longboard Trucks - 50 Degree 10" on an Original KT Arbiter 36?

Those are going to make the trucks turn quite a bit, and feel pretty unstable compared to the stock bushings that come with the Caliber’s. If you like your trucks to feel more loose, than these will work out great for you.

Do bushings make a big difference in the ride feel of a truck?

Depending on how hard or soft a bushing is, it will make a noticeable difference. The softer the bushing, the more turn and carve you will get. The harder the bushing, the more restrictive / stable turn you will get.

Will the Venom Double Barrel bushings fit in my Landyachtz Bear Grizzly Trucks?

Yeah, they should fit no problem!

How do the standard bushings work on Cast Ronin trucks since they are taller?

They come with 92a bushings stock, which are decently stiff, especially on a stable truck like that. They compliment the trucks very nice for the common rider.

I ordered a complete Comet Voodoo D2 with Purple Funk 50 Degree Caliber Trucks. It is specified that the trucks have Blood Orange Bushings and when I looked at the trucks, they look more like Venom Green Bushings which are sick but I was wondering if there is any difference in performance.

The bushings that come on the Caliber Trucks are 89a, which is actually quite a bit different from the green Venom Downhill bushings, which are 93a. The 89a bushings will have more flex and turn, while the 93a will give some more stability without less turnability.

Can Venom Freeride Bushings work on Gullwing Sidewinder Trucks?

Most of the Venom Bushings won't fit, but the Venom Conventional Bushings will. Other bushings, like the Downhills or Standards will be too tall to fir on the Sidewinder Kingpin.

I just got new bushings, the 81a Venom Standard and the 86a Venom SHR Standard Bushings. Which one should I put roadside and which one boardside? I weigh 100 pounds and am still growing.

Normally, I’d say that your best bet is to put the harder of the two boardside, however the standards consist of one barrel and one cone, and I definitely wouldn’t recommend putting a cone roadside.  In this case, I would suggest a set of Venom 86a SHR Downhills (to have two harder, SHR bushings boardside) and a set of 81a Super Carves (to have two softer cones roadside).  However, since you have standards, I’d say put the 81a Standards on the front truck, and the 86a SHRs on the back.  It’s a less common setup, but it definitely works to keep your back truck stable, and keep the control in your front truck.

COMPLETE BOARDS

I'd like to have a versatile downhill and freeride board, but also one that's good to use in the city. I wouldn't like to spend more than $150. Can you recommend a good board in that price range?

I am sorry to say that there are not going to be hardly any longboards under $150 that are going to work well for downhill, freeriding and just overall cruising around town. If you are trying to stay as close to that price as possible, I would recommend that you take a look at the Sector 9 Dropper. This is a very versatile board, that will do just about anything you need it to. The standard default components will work well for you to start off, but down the road I would recommend finding a more well rounded wheel for the three riding styles you are trying to accomplish. The Abec11 Flashbacks or Orangatang Stimulus Wheels will be a good all-around wheel for you. I would stick to 80a or 81a if you do not want to be consistently changing out your wheels to accommodate your riding style.

The wheels I want to put on my complete are not coming up as an option on the drop down menu. Is there anyway I can get them on my board?

You will just want to select the Stock Dano Downhill Wheel that comes up on the board. Then in the order comments please just let us know which wheels you really want on your board and we can charge you the additional funds and build it up just as requested.

Which Penny board is better for ramps/skate parks the Nickel or the Penny Original?

The Nickel, as it is a little bit larger and will be easier to stay locked on.

DOWNHILL

I am looking at buying the Bustin Ibach 9-ply with some Caliber 50 Blackout Trucks and some Mini Zombie Hawgs 70mm Wheels. I plan on doing sliding and downhill. Is this an okay setup to allow me to do both?

The Ibach with Caliber 50s is definitely an awesome choice for that style of riding. If you plan on doing some higher speed downhill and freeriding, the Mini Zombies might not have the kind of traction you'll need. In that case, I'd suggest a set of Abec11 Flashbacks in either 78a or 81a.

GRIPTAPE

Does "clear" grip tape mean transparent grip tape?

Yes, when a grip tape is clear, it means you can see through it. People use it so they can see the top graphic of their board. It's not completely see through, though. Be warned.

Is there any engineering units (like the durometer for wheel hardness) that I can estimate what grip tape to order?

There is no rating for the coarseness of grip tape. Some are just more coarse than others.

What griptape do people usually use for cruising?

For cruising you can really use any griptape you like, but a few brands that would be good are Black Magic, Mob, or Jessup.

If I order a complete deck will it come with griptape?

Some of the boards come gripped from the manufacturer. Others do not. If they do not come gripped from the manufacturer there will be an option to choose the griptape you want.

What colors of Blood Orange Grip Tape do you have?

We have Blood Orange Grip in orange, light blue, red, purple, green, dark blue, and black.

I'm just wondering if you can change the grip tape for the Loaded Poke?

You can definitely remove the factory grip tape, but you'll need to warm the adhesive in order to pull it off. You should use either a heat gun or a hair dryer.

HARDWARE

LONGBOARDS

Will 1.5" DBS dank bolts fit my Caliber 50s on a Switchblade 38?

They will, but they will stick out a little far. You may want to just go the 1.25" Dank Bolts instead. When we assemble those boards, that is the standard size we use.

MISC

Does Daddies Board Shop provide the necessary equipment to put together the board?

We provide the hardware that is necessary if you order a bundled compete, but it does not include a tool.

What Bolt size should I order if I want to put a Nosejob Guard on the Landyachtz Switchblade 40?

For that board, you’ll need 1-1/2" hardware to mount the NoseJob.

I am looking to purchase the Loaded Sama Deck and Paris Trucks. I was wondering if I had to purchase the mounting hardware separately or if either the deck or trucks came with hardware?

If you are ordering the Sama as a complete, your order will come with the mounting hardware, however if you’re just getting the deck with the trucks, you will need to include mounting hardware manually in your order.  For that deck with Paris trucks, you’ll need 1.25" hardware.

If I buy a complete from your website and select "No, I'll assemble it myself", does the board still come with hardware, or will I have to get my own?

Your board and components will come with the hardware that you need to complete your order.

What size hardware should I use for my board if I'm not using any risers?

For most boards you will be able to use 1.25" hardware. Certain boards are thicker and may require 1.5" hardware.

What size hardware would be best for my Caliber 50 Degree 10" Longboard Trucks on a Landyachtz Switch 40"?

What is the hardware used for stock Landyachtz boards? When these stock hardware are put on the Landyachtz Drop Speed 2013 with shock pads, how much of the bolt is left clear when the nut is screwed on?

That really depends on what shock pad we are using. However, we generally use 1-1/4" hardware unless there is a riser, and a little less that 1/4" will be sticking out. Not too much, but enough to go through the thread lock.

RISERS / SHOCKPADS

What size and type of hardware do you recommend for an Earthwing Miniglider / Indy 169 / 1/8" Riser setup?

For that board, 1-1/4" or 1-1/2" hardware will work just fine. We suggest 1-1/2" if you plan on using different risers or feel like experimenting with your setup.

What length of hardware would you recommend for most boards and with 1/4" risers?

In most cases, you are going to want to use 1-1/2" hardware to make sure that it is long enough to get the bolt through the thread lock on the nut.

LONGBOARDS

FREERIDE

Which board is better for freeriding, light bombing, and parking garages? The Original Freeride 38 or the Rayne Rival?

The Freeride 38 will definitely be easier to get to slide, as it is a drop-through. It's made more for freeriding and sliding, whereas the Rival is made more for higher speed freeriding.

Which deck: Comet Noah Sakamoto or Shred 35 would be best for freeriding/tech-sliding and learning how to street skate? I would be riding 10-inch 50 Calibers.

Both boards will be great for freeriding and tech sliding, however it is easier to do flip tricks on a narrower board. If you were planning on learning to do flip tricks, you may have an easier time on the Noah Sakamoto.

Should I get the Rayne Nemesis or Bombsquad Pocket Ace for downhill and freeride?

Definitely the Rayne Nemesis.  The symmetrical cut, drop, and concave make it definitely superior in the freeride realm, while its double drop design and stiffness will work great for downhilling.

I'm tied between the Bustin Yoface and Landyachtz Ripple Ridge for cruising around, maneuvering around pedestrians, ditches, and parking garages. I'm gonna be throwing in some slides, but mainly speed checks and small standies when the speed gets too high. Which would you pick and why? If you have any other suggestions, I'd love to hear them.

Out of the two, the YoFace would be the better choice. The shorter wheelbase on the Ripple Ridge will definitely make it more maneuverable, however if you're going to be going high enough speeds that you'll need to slide to maintain , we'd recommend something a tad longer for more stability. Also, if you were planning on doing any ollies, the Ripple Ridge doesn't have kicked up nose to catch your foot.  Boards like that are lots of fun, but sort of strange to get used to for ollies. Our choice recommendation for this would be the Loaded Kanthaka. It's just a little longer than the YoFace, and it's super versatile and maneuverable. You can bomb, slide, ollie, hit ditch spots, etc.

GRIPTAPE

I'm ordering a Landyachtz Switchblade and was wondering if I could get the board with Vicious Griptape applied?

The Landyachtz Switchblade comes pre-gripped from the manufacturer, but you can purchase Vicious Grip if you want. The griptape that comes on the Switchblade is similar to Mob or Jessup so you'd have to strip that off to apply Vicious, or grip over the existing griptape.

Hi, I am buying a Sector 9 Dropper Deck for Christmas and I am wondering if the deck comes gripped or if I need to buy griptape for it.

That's an ideal first board.  It's super versatile, so you'll have plenty of room to figure out what your riding style is. The Dropper comes gripped, however if you were to order the deck, you would receive only the deck.  In order to get the full longboard, you'd need to order the Dropper Complete.

MISC

I am looking to buy my first longboard. I am interested in something for long and easy cruising, lot of stability and easy to ride. I plan to use it for a twice a week commuting time of 30 min. The terrain is mainly flat. No interest in tricks whatsoever...what would you recommend?

If you are planning on commuting with the board, I would say to look at something like the Sector 9 Lookout or the Loaded Tan Tien if you are willing to spend the extra money.

Will the Nosejob fit on the Original Freeride 38 board? How do I know if I need DBS Dank Bolts? Also, will this Nosejob protect my board if I do a wheelie and scrape the bottom?

Unfortunately, the NoseJob guards will fit on the Freeride 38, however they won't be effective in protecting the nose.

If I weigh over 200 pounds will I be too heavy to comfortably ride the Landyachtz Tomahawk?

The Landyachtz Tomahawk is a very strong, stiff 9-Ply board that can handle riders 200 pounds or more.

What is the difference between the 2012 and 2013 Landyachtz Wolfshark?

The 2013 has a different sublimated graphic as well as gas pedals cut in to the side of the board.

Will the Gold Coast Valve Longboard hold my weight well? I'm 270 - 280lbs.

The Gold Coast Valve is a small longboard is not recommended for heavier riders.

I weigh 158 pounds. What flex Loaded Tan Tien do you recommend for me?

The Loaded Tan Tien Flex 1 is rated at up to 270 pounds, Flex 2 is 130-210 pounds, and the Flex 3 is 80 -170 pounds.

Does the Landyachtz Time Machine have the tri-axial fiberglass?

The Landyachtz Time Machine has 7 plies of maple with a composite top sheet and fiberglass bottom sheet.

Do you assemble the board before you ship it? Or do I have to put it together?

We are more than happy to assemble your board for you if you select that from the options menu. If you'd rather put it together yourself, then choose the "No, I'll assemble it myself" option from the dropdown menus.

Does the Gravity Pintail complete come with griptape on it?

Yes, the Gravity Pintail comes with black griptape applied.

So I have been debating on ordering a Landyachtz Dinghy, but if I did would I be able to get the parts like in the picture or would it come with the Paris 150s and Dano Wheels?

If you order the default, it will come with the Paris Trucks. If you want the components in the photo, you will need to change them out in the configurator on the right side of the page.

I'm thinking of getting the Never Summer Clutch or Never Summer Tyrant. I want a board that will be good for just cruising around, carving, and sliding. Which board would be better? I'm kind of a beginner. I've been riding my friends board for about 6 months.

Both of these boards will work out great for you, however they do have some slight differences. The Tyrant is a little bit stiffer, so it is going to be able to handle some downhill a little bit better for you. If you are looking for something that is a little bit more comfortable for sliding and commuting, I would steer you more towards the clutch. The clutch has more concave, and is going to keep you locked in a little bit better when you are trying to rail those corners and get the board to break free, where as The Tyrant is a lot more flat.

I am about 5' 5" (1,65m) tall and I wanted to ask if I should get the Landyachtz Switchblade in 36 ,38 or 40 inch length.

That really depends on how wide you like your stance. If you like a wider stance, I would say to go with the 40.

Is the Original Arbiter heavier than the Landyachtz Tomahawk?

Arbiter is 4.8 lbs. and the Tomahawk is 4.75, so they're very close.

My son is turning 12 and we would like to get him his first longboard.  Your site had mentioned that the Arbor Bamboo Fish 38 was a good beginner longboard.  Am I understanding this correctly?

That is correct! The Arbor Fish is a great board to learn how to longboard on, and I would highly recommend it.

I currently have a Original Freeride Beast 41, and my question is, what mounting hardware size should I use if I want to add drop thru shock pads? Also, is the Nose Job Kick tail compatible with the board too?

For that setup with Drop through pads, 1-1/4" hardware should be just fine. Unfortunately, the Nosejob will fit on that board, but won't be effective at all.

I have a question about the Loaded Tan Tien Longboard decks. I was wondering if you get fiber glass splinters when you touch the sides and if the deck comes with griptape or none.

Nope! As long as the board is taken care of, it won't splinter like that.  Also, the Tan Tien comes pre-gripped from Loaded.

What board would you recommend between the Gravity Makai Longboard or the Sector Nine Lookout?

Those boards are both awesome, and are definitely very similar, in both shape and function. If you are looking for something that has a little flex to it I would go with the Gravity Makai whereas if you want it to be solid under your feet the Sector 9 Lookout would be more appropriate. If you're just getting into the world of longboarding either board will help you excel and have a great time.

What kind of board will be most appropriate if only being used for ditches?

For that kind of riding, you're going to want something stiff, and with a kick tail.  That way you'll be able to maintain stability, but also have tons of control over your board.  Something like the Comet Ethos, Loaded Kanthaka, or the Landyachtz Peacemaker would be perfect for that kind of shredding!

TRUCKS

I bought a Sector 9 Faultline recently (with Paris V2 trucks). I am relatively new to the world of longboarding, so I was just wondering what shock pads would be compatible with my board and trucks?

Any shockpad will work. It depends on the trucks you intend on using. Certain trucks have a specific hole pattern.

I want to order the Rayne Phantom Complete but I prefer a Traditional Kingpin Truck (probably Independents) but first I would like to know the deck width on the front and back bolts. I ask because I had problems in the past choosing trucks considering the widest point of the board, when for me the best (because of leverage) is to consider the front and back bolts where  the truck sits.

It's 9-3/8” at the bolts on both the front and the back. There is very little width variance all the way down the board.

MISC

ACCESSORIES

Would the Timeship Racing Lexan Face Shield fit onto a size medium Bell Sanction?

Yes it should fit, but you will need to cut-to-fit that shield.

Does the Timeship Racing Lexan Face Shield come with hardware to mount it? Is there a specific screw/hardware I need?

The hardware should come the helmet you purchase. Just use the same bolts that the original visor uses.

LONGBOARDS

If I order my board to come assembled does it come with tools for adjustment?

If you ordered your board to be assembled, it would come all as one piece. No tools required! However, if you included a tool with your order to make further adjustments, it will also be included with your complete.

If I order my board to come un-assembled does it come with tools needed?

No. If you order a board to come un-assembled, you'll need to use your own tools or order a skate tool to set it up. To set up a board you really only need one skate tool for all the components. If you are also gripping your own board, you will need a razor blade and a file or piece of hard metal.

ALL

What does wheelbase mean?

Wheelbase refers to the length between both trucks. More specifically, it refers to the distance between the hole patterns on your board. Some boards have multiple holes so you can set your trucks at different lengths apart. That's why some boards have multiple wheelbase options.

Which wheelbase option will my complete board be assembled with?

We assemble all of our boards with the widest wheelbase option available.

I am from Australia and I was wondering what shipping should I choose?

We have several different shipping options to choose to ship your package to Australia. You can choose USPS, DHL, or UPS.

Hi, I'm the president of my snowboard/skateboard club here in Lincoln, California. I was just wondering if you guys would like to help support by sending us some free stickers! We would greatly appreciate it! Thank you

Sure thing! I'd be happy to hook it up with some stickers. All you need to do is put a self-addressed, stamped envelope in another envelope and mail it over to us! We'll fill up the envelope addressed to you with some stickers and get it out in the mail to you!

RISERS / SHOCKPADS

Do you recommend shock pads on a cruising set up?

We recommend 1/4" shockpads if you're riding your trucks loose, or you can go a little bit smaller if you're not. Shock pads don't hurt on a cruising setup, they'll absorb more shock on rough road!

Are there any positives and negatives for choosing thicker shock pads?

For the shock pads, they add clearance as well as shock absorption. A thicker riser pad, for the most part, will offer more clearance for a larger wheel. If you don't need this kind of clearance, a 1/8" shock should do just fine.

Do Caliber 44 Trucks come with risers / shock pads or do I have to buy them separately?

Unfortunately, trucks don't come with any sort of risers or shock pads. If you want risers or shock pads, just add them to your cart and we'll add them to your order.

What shock pads can I use on my Landyachtz Switchblade 38?

You can use the Loaded Dervish shock pads or the Khiro Drop Thru shock pads.

What is the difference between the large and small Khiro .032 Shock Pads?

The large ones are just slightly bigger, and typically will be a better fit for most longboard trucks. The small ones are for trucks with smaller base plates like traditional skate trucks.

What size Khiro .032 Shock Pad will fit best on Caliber Trucks?

The Khiro .032 Shock Pad Large will be the best fit for Caliber Trucks.

Do you suggest that I get risers for my board even if I already have drop through shock pads?

I would keep the drop through shock pads. The whole point of a drop through board is to lower your center of gravity to make the board more stable, so raising it further off the ground would be something we wouldn't recommended. It's not possible anyway because of how the trucks are mounted on the board. Risers are strictly for top mounted boards.

SNOWBOARD BAG

Is there enough room in the Dakine Freestyle Snowboard bag for boots as well?

Yes, there is ample room to store you snowboard boots in the Dakine Freestyle Snowboard bag. You can even buy a larger size to have more room!

SNOWBOARDS

What size boots fit in a small / medium snowboard binding?

Typically a shoe size 6-9 would fit in a small / medium binding.

Do you rent snowboards?

Unfortunately we do not rent Snowboards here at Daddies Board Shop.

TRUCKS

LONGBOARDS

Which trucks do you guys recommend for the Sector 9 Lookout?

The recommended trucks for the Sector 9 Lookout are the Gullwing Chargers.

If I was to set up the Sector 9 Puerto Rico with Gullwing Sidewinders, what size riser should I use?

Technically speaking, you shouldn't need a riser for this set up, but you could use anywhere from a 1/8"-1/4" riser for added wheel clearance.

What are the best trucks for a Loaded Fattail? 180mm or 150mm?

Either 180mm or 150mm trucks will fit on that board. If you want something that is quicker turning you will want to try 150mm trucks, for a little more stability, go for the 180mm trucks.

Will the Landyachtz Switchblade 40 work with Caliber 50s just as well as Bears?

Yes, the Landyachtz Switchblade 40 is able to accommodate almost every truck on the market.

I order a Loaded Dervish Sama and Paris V2 Trucks. Do they come with bushings, washers, and risers?

They come with what's seen in the picture of the V2 Trucks (bushings, bolts, speed rings, and cup washers for the bushings). They don't come with mounting hardware unless you're ordering a complete board from us. If you're ordering a complete longboard, it comes ready to ride out of the box, assembled with hardware, washers, etc. Risers are extra, you have to add them at the time of purchase.

I am about to order the Bustin Boombox and was wondering what trucks I should get with them. Paris V2 or Caliber 50 Degree Trucks? I am looking  to do freestyle and free riding but overall I will freestyle more than freeride.

Sure thing! If you're planning on doing lower to medium speed freeriding and freestyle riding, I'd suggest the Paris V2s.  For higher speed stuff, however, I'd suggest the Calibers.  It sounds like the V2s are the ones for you, though!

WHEELS

Will I get wheelbite running Caliber Trucks on the Earthwing Drop Thru Supermodel?

The Earthwing Drop Thru Supermodel is really made to paired up with Independent 215mm Trucks, so there is a chance you may get wheelbite with the Caliber 184mm Trucks.

What's the biggest wheel I could run on my Landyachtz Peacemaker with Polar Bear 155mm trucks?

It really depends on how loose your trucks are, but you should be able to get away with a 62mm wheel.

BUSHINGS

Do trucks come with bushings or would I need to order them separately?

Every truck on our website except for some of the precision trucks come with bushings.

My new trucks have been squeaking ever since I received them. What should I do?

Chances are it is just your bushings or pivot cup. You will want to try putting some soap shavings or something like that to stop the squeaking, otherwise if you can deal with the noise, it is perfectly normal. I actually do not own a single setup that is squeak free.  

What duro are the bushings that come with the Ronin Billet Trucks?

The bushings that come stock in those trucks are a 92a. You can order separate packs of bushings if you are looking for a harder or softer bushing. Just remember that bushings come in single packs so if you want to change out the bushings on both trucks you will need to order 2 packs of them.

ACCESSORIES

Do I have to order Randal Baseplates one or two at a time for a set of trucks?

Randal Baseplates come as a quantity of one, so for both trucks you will need to order two.

DOWNHILL

Which degree truck will be best for downhill riding?

Typically, for downhill skating the lower degree baseplate you have, the more stable your ride will be. Several truck companies make a lower degree baseplate. A few include the Randal 42 degree trucks, Caliber 44 degree, or Cast Ronins which have a 42.5 degree baseplate.

MISC

Are the Caliber 50 Degree Trucks available in 10" or 9"?

Caliber 50 degree trucks are available in both 10" and 9".

Do you guys have anything close to a 3-inch truck?

You would want to go with some Tracker Darts Mid Tracks or Full Tracks, or some Paris 108mm trucks.

Will the Original Freeride 38 board accept the Original S8 200mm trucks?

The Original Freeride 38 board is a drop thru style board. The Original S8 200mm trucks have a baseplate that is too large to fit through the mounting holes of the Freeride 38.

What are some smaller sized trucks to fit on Landyachtz El Barbaro?

For this board you will want a truck from the 155-159mm range. A couple different trucks that would work are the Landyachtz Polar Bear 155mm Trucks and the Independent 159mm Stage 11 Trucks.

What degree baseplates do the Buzzed Precision Trucks have?

Buzzed Precision Trucks have 47 degree baseplates.

What difference does the size of a truck hanger make?

The wider the truck hanger is, the more stable it will be at higher speeds.

When I order trucks, are they a set of two or just one?

Trucks will be in sets of two unless specifically stated otherwise.

Will the Caliber 44 Degree trucks work well on the Landyachtz Evo deck, or will it bring my wheels closer to bite?

The Caliber 44 Degree trucks will work fine, but depending on the wheels you may get wheelbite if you have them super loose.

What is the advantage of putting Paris 150mm Trucks on a smaller cruiser?

The Paris 150's are a great cruisy/carvy truck that compliments cruiser boards really well.

Will the Cast Ronins fit my Sector 9 Roxanne?

Unfortunately the Cast Ronins only have the "new school hole pattern" so they won't work on the Roxanne, as it's only drilled with the "old school pattern."

My friend broke one of the trucks on my board. Is there any possible way to buy a single truck as opposed to a set of two?

There really isn't a way to order one single truck on the website. You could order a set, and place in BIG BOLD LETTERS in your order comments that you only want one truck, and we could refund you for one.

How much does a set of Caliber Trucks weigh?

A set of Caliber Trucks weighs about two pounds.

What're the differences between putting traditional kingpin trucks (TKP) and reverse kingpin trucks (RKP) on a double kick board?

Reverse king pin trucks are going to feel more stable, and are built more for going downhill. Traditional kingpin trucks are better for city cruising, ollies, and other tricks.

I'm having a tough time deciding between the Paris 180mm V2 and the Caliber 184mm 44 Trucks. I've previously owned Paris 180s and really liked them, but my board got stolen. I want my next setup to be more stable, but I don't want to sacrifice maneuverability.

If you are familiar with the riding style of Paris 180mm Trucks and want the board to handle speed better without sacrificing turning radius I would definitely recommend the Caliber II 50 Degree Trucks. It is all personal preference, however, most people find that they are very stable but still turn sharp when they want them to. They come in all different kinds of colors so just make sure you pick which one's you like best and stick with 50 Degree baseplates.

WHEELS

DOWNHILL WHEELS

I weigh 150 pounds. Will I be heavy enough to compress the urethane of the Abec 11 Centrax 80a?

You'll be just fine at your weight. Really what "compressing the 'thane" does is it makes sure that the wheels will grip enough for you at your weight (which is why heavier riders need harder wheels, and lighter riders need softer wheels).  However, with the Centrax, that's not really an issue

What speed do you have to be going to slide on the Abec11 Classic ZigZags 78a?

As far as sliding goes, it completely depends on the rider. You can slide the Abec11 Classic ZigZags 78a, but they are not the best freeride wheel. For the 78a ZigZags, you'll definitely need a higher speed to slide.

FREERIDE WHEELS

I was looking at getting the Abec 11 Classic Freerides. Which durometer would be best for sliding?

That depends on how fast you're planning on going. For high speed sliding, the 78a wheels would be best, 84a for lower speed, and 81a for right in between.

I'm thinking about getting the 62mm 82a Landyachtz Street Hawgs for mainly doing freeride around 20-25mph. Do you think that is a good choice?

62mm 82a Landyachtz Street Hawgs are a great slide wheel for slower speeds. They may be too icy at speeds over 20mph.

What wheels are recommended for sliding?

That really depends on what you want to get out of the wheel exactly. If you are looking for something that is just overall easy to slide, I would say to take a look at the Orangatang Stimulus wheels in 86a. If you are doing faster freeriding, the Volante Morgans are great.

Would the Abec11 Pink Polka Dots be good with the 2013 Landyachtz Wolfshark for sliding/freeriding?

The Abec11 Pink Polka Dots are a great all around freeriding wheel. So yes, they would be good on the Wolfshark.

I do downhill, hold out slides and switch slides, and I was wondering what is the best wheel for holding out slides and leaving thane, but lasts a long time?

There are lots of variables that come into play when trying to "leave thane" and some people may not get them out of certain wheels. In all honesty, that is not something that is necessarily a good thing if you are looking for a wheel that lasts a long time. The Abec11 Flashbacks will leave some for you, but if you want a great freeride wheels that just lasts a long time, check out These wheels.

What are some good slides for a beginner to try?

As for some slide tutorials, I would recommend looking up a few videos on YouTube to get you started. You will find anything you need to know in there!

Are the Sector 9 Butterballs good for somebody who is still learning to slide? If not what is a good wheel on the cheaper side?

Yep! The Butterballs are great slide wheels! You could also take a look at the Abec11 Flashbacks in a higher Durometer like 81a or 84a.

ALL WHEELS

Why do the Abec11 Classic FreeRides Wheels 72mm wheels have a hexagonal shape in the middle?

That hexagonal shape is just in the very inside of the core. This does not change the way the bearings fit, although it is a little difficult to see in the photo. It is still the same standard size to accommodate any of the bearings that we carry.

If I cone my wheels, can I rotate them even if they are off set and not center set?

I wouldn't recommend flipping the wheels, as that will drastically affect your ride for the worse. However, you can definitely rotate your wheels (switch toe-side wheels to heel side and vice versa) to allow for even wear.

Is there a difference in performance between the different colors of the Danos downhill wheels?

With most wheels, different colors do indicate different functionality. However, that isn't the case with Dano's. All Dano's Downhills Wheels have a 78a durometer. With our wheels it's all about style!

Can I have some suggestions for a moderate speed downhill and slide wheel?

Some good wheels for moderate downhill and freeriding would be the Abec 11 Retro Freerides, These ATF, or RAD Release wheels.

When I order wheels are they in sets of four?

Almost all of our wheels come in sets of four unless specifically stated otherwise.

How do you break in Mini Zombie Hawgs? and what are good beginners slides?

Those wheels come pre-broken in. Really you just need to get out there and skate them, and you will break them in more naturally.

Are the "These Wheels" that you carry pre broken in?

The These 717s aren't, however the 727s are.
Daddies Board Shop Help and Contact Us